"Light-colored shirts are light like fog, and spun yarn […]
"Light-colored shirts are light like fog, and spun yarns are thinner than clouds. They are too thin but know, and they fear that Tongzhou will kill the king" - Bai Juyi's "Parasitic Clothes and Micro"
The poem fully reflects the materials used in ancient summer clothing. How did the ancients wear in the summer? In fact, in dealing with the three days, the ancients dress is nothing more than two ways, wearing less and wearing thin. So how did the ancients do these two things?
The fabrics worn by the ancients in the summer are quite thin and light, and the six-layered body can still be seen in the chest. Not only is the fabric so cool, but also beautiful in style and color, it can be said to be both fashionable and cool.
Ming summer cloth single shirt.
One is close enough to the people
Plant fibers such as plantain can be woven into summer cloth
Summer clothes naturally want to be cool and healthy, so the choice of fabric is very important. In general, natural fibers such as silk, cotton, and hemp are relatively breathable and comfortable, and are very suitable for use as summer clothing. The ancients were quite smart and discovered this very early. In the pre-Qin period, many Ski wear fabric civilians relied on Gebu to spend the summer.
The raw material for making Gebu is the stem fiber of the plant. The fabric made of this fiber has a thin texture and is light and elegant on the body. In addition to being used to make clothes, Wei Jinshi also likes to use it as a headscarf. Du Fu, a great poet of the Tang Dynasty, wrote poems describing the coolness of Gebu. "The fine corn is soft and the snow is light."
“There are not many summer clothes, three or five things of banana yarn”. In addition to Gebu, many fabric fibers refer to fabrics that are suitable for summer heat. For example, summer cloth made of ramie, banana yarn woven from banana skin, Bamboo cloth, Mu Rong yarn and so on. "Bamboo and hibiscus are also cloth, and the wings are like smoke." These fabrics can also achieve a light and cool effect.
Two thin enough
Wearing six layers of silk, you can still hide the navel
Silk is a kind of yarn, and the yarn in a broad sense also includes a fabric spun from fibers such as wool and hemp. Because the yarn is thin and sparse, light in weight, beautiful in appearance, good in air permeability, and widely used in ancient times, it is a popular material for summer clothes in various periods. The silk fabrics that the ancient princes and nobles love to wear are still the darlings on the market.
The main reason why the ancients love to wear a gauze is its lightness. Unearthed from the Han Tomb of Mawangdui, it is now housed in the Hunan Provincial Museum. It is 160 cm long and has a sleeve length of 190 cm. It weighs only 49 grams and is less than one or two. It can be described as "thin as a flap." In the museum in Nanjing, there is also a Song Dynasty gauze that weighs only 34 grams.
In addition to being light, the gauze is particularly thin. According to the literature, silk was exported from ancient China to ancient Rome as early as the Roman era. At that time, Caesar the Great wore six layers of silk to watch the play, or the vagina could be seen vaguely. Everyone's attention was concentrated on the silk clothes he wore, causing a sensation in the theater.
Three enough comfort
Vest vests, sweat-proof clothes cool
In ancient times, the dress code also followed the ritual of "the punishment is not on the doctor, the ceremony is not swearing." The clothes of civilians are as short as possible, and the long clothes are cut short, and the usual ones are fitted with sweatshirts and vests. Ancient vests are not called vests. They have other names. According to the historical records of Sui and Tang Dynasties, the ancients called them ǎ (liǎng dāng) and 袹 belly (bó fù). There is also a vest made of bamboo, commonly known as "sweat-wicking suit", which has the function of venting and perspiration.
The ancients also often wear cool "open trousers", which can make people stunned. In the summer, wearing "open trousers", in addition to the wind and cool, it is especially convenient to go to the toilet. Aristocratic women wear everyday, unlike we have only a thin layer of clothes, and there are shirts, robes, robes, and pants in their long skirts. It is quite cumbersome to wear. Because of this, the women's trousers in the Song Dynasty were mostly used in open skirts and worn in formal skirts to facilitate toilet use.
Four enough fashion
"Sen" fresh air shoes are explosion models
Su Shi’s word “竹杖芒鞋轻胜马” appeared in “Meng shoes”, does it sound like super art? In its practical and popular terms, it is a straw shoe. The woven materials generally include straw, bulrush, wheat straw, corn stalk, and urtica. In addition to playing the role of summer, wearing mans shoes is mainly for the convenience of labor.
In addition, there is a hemp shoe made of reed batt. Hemp shoes are higher than the sandals. According to traditional customs, hemp shoes are also required when defending filial piety. In the modern words, the style of hemp shoes is the fresh wind of the Sen, which is generally worn by ordinary people.
"Xunzi" 曰: "The clothes of the coarse cloth, the rough corrections can be used to raise the body." The "roughly correcting" mentioned here refers to the shoes woven by twine. After the opening of the Tang Dynasty, this shoe became a good girl's heart. The girl who loves beauty will dye the shoes in color on the basis of the true color.
Five enough to pay attention to
Like to wear white, play with the same color
To ask what is the coolest color of summer clothes, there will be people who answer white in all likelihood. White was very auspicious in the Shang Dynasty. After the annihilation of the Zhou Dynasty, the white was damaged, representing disaster and pain. It was usually worn during funeral and sacrifice.
In the Warring States period, the five elements of the theory prevailed, the five virtues began to say steep, white to obtain the normal position of the season clothing color, Confucian insistence, white clothing color still bear the function of funeral clothing. But in the heat, wearing white is normal. White is still the normal color of summer, people start wearing white clothes in the summer.
It is also worth mentioning that the ancient Chinese people also pay special attention to the matching of shoes and clothing colors and styles. In the "Yi Li Shi Shi Li", "Xuan Duan Black Skull" and "Sui Ji Bai Yu". This means that if the clothes are black, wear black shoes; if you wear white woven clothes with pleats at the waist, you have to match them with white shoes. This principle of color matching, leading the current "fashion fine" for thousands of years.
What accessories are there in ancient times?
Fighting: The hat of sunshade and rain has a wide edge and is woven with bamboo squeegee or bamboo leaf brown silk. From ancient times to the present, in the rural areas of Jiangnan, almost every household has a fight. In the outing, they wear their heads regardless of whether it is fine or rainy, and become an indispensable necessities in production and life.
Cool hat: the official hat used by the officials of the Qing Dynasty in the summer. The shape of the cool hat is flawless and shaped like a cone. It is commonly called a horn. Most of the materials are made of vine and bamboo. Wrapped in the scorpion, more white, also useful in lake, yellow and so on. Topped with red enamel beads. The apex is an important symbol that distinguishes the official position.
Headscarf: The origin is very ancient, originally a symbol of civilians. In the Ming and Qing dynasties, it was stipulated that the scholars must wear the Confucian towel, which was widely spread to the present and became a convenient and affordable accessory.
Group fan: Chinese fan culture has a profound historical heritage. The group fan is one of many fans. It originated from the Shang Dynasty and was first made of five-color pheasant hair. It was used as a visor to protect the sand from the wind. After the Western Han Dynasty, the fan began to cool.