In the 18th century, the sewing machine was not invented.


In the 18th century, the sewing machine was not invente […]

In the 18th century, the sewing machine was not invented. All the clothes were tailored and sewn by the tailor. This method of making is similar to today's Haute Couture, except that the version is different from the cut.

For centuries, tailors saw garment patterns as trade secrets and would not even share them with apprentices until the big tailor sold the business to the receiver.

At that time, the equipment needed for garments was more than needed today. But in any case, the quality of the tailor's work of that era was amazing, and the tailored clothes were also very fit.

In the 19th century, under the impetus of enclosure movements, Jenny machines and steam engines, the Empire did not rely on the rapid rise of the textile industry. Just as 200 years later, China after the reform and opening up also borrowed from the textile industry.

At the time, British style and British fabrics were world-renowned and considered to be the most elegant and elegant consumer goods. The world's overlord, the capital of the United Kingdom, London, became a huge tailor shop, providing menswear and cultural confidence to the gentlemen of the entire British Empire.

The city's western district has a large number of tailors, shirt makers and cloth dealers. In the family workshops in the eastern district, craftsmen who produce outerwear, pants and vests work in poor and crowded homes.

For the mass market, ready-to-wear is still rare. Fashion geeks who like Vintage today don't think that at that time, only the poorest citizens relied on second-hand clothing or niche dresses in home workshops.

In the rural and migrant workers' areas, tailors use cheap fabrics to sew clothes that the poor can afford. However, according to the income-to-consumption ratio, the price of clothes is still too high. Only for the outsourcing of the big tailor shop, the little tailor can go on.

Not only in the UK, in every corner of the world, tailor shops are thriving, because whether it is men, women, or children, the clothes are handmade, but the price is not equal.

In the eighteenth century, tailors began to think about how to reduce the number of processes required for garments. They invented cutting systems that, combined with the sewing machine invented in 1790, have forever changed the way the garments were made and the lives of everyone.

By 1830, France had the first manufacturer of large machine-made garments to provide uniforms for the military. Subsequently, civilian clothing manufacturers followed suit, and the production of clothing was born.

With the advantage of low-cost mass production, the number of ready-made garments has exploded. At the end of the 19th century, the quality and fit of garments increased greatly. The size system was born, and you have the familiar S/M/L/XL. . . size.

But for the rich, tailoring is still their first choice bonding fabric , even if they are tailored to the proletariat. The appeal of custom-made clothing is undiminished, and each piece of clothing is worn by different people and is unique.

In the 1960s, non-woven linings became a watershed, separating garments and custom garments produced at the factory.
In the 1960s, non-woven linings became a watershed, separating garments and custom garments produced at the factory.

A nonwoven fusible interlining is a method of garment bonding an interlining cloth to an outer layer fabric with an adhesive. The adhesive is applied to the inner liner, heated and pressed, the adhesive melts, and the inner lining and outer fabric are bonded. The traditional craft stitches the inner lining and the outer fabric with a thread behind the shoulder seam and the collar, ensuring the softness and natural drape of the garment.

In contrast, non-woven bonding can make the armor stiff and lose the natural drape. Because it saves a lot of time and reduces costs, it becomes a standard process for garments.

Soon, the non-woven bonding technology has developed by leaps and bounds, and the quality of clothes treated by non-woven bonding has been greatly improved, and it is no longer stiff as before. Most of the big names you know are almost all using a non-woven fusible lining.

It must be admitted that the adhesive lining is not as good as the traditional craftsmanship, the lining of the hand-stitched custom suit will be more comfortable and the lapels are more stylish. Therefore, the tailors of the clothing private custom service have always dismissed it.

After the promotion of the adhesive lining, the quality of the garment at the same price and the practicality of the tailoring are very good, and the traditional tailor becomes redundant. Even if you add machine equipment, a set of custom clothes will take 60 hours to build. Handmade custom clothing has shrunk rapidly.

After the 70th generation, the living space for clothing customization is getting smaller and smaller, leisure and sportswear are going to the tide brand, the demand for traditional armor is reduced, and low-cost ready-to-wear is becoming more and more available. There seems to be no room for survival in the custom of clothing.

In just 30 years, people seem to have forgotten the existence of customization, wearing unsuitable clothes, revealing the brand LOGO, full of pride. Many people have changed their physiques in order to adapt to industrialized standards, and completely forgot that clothes are the essence of the body.

To this day, the classics are equipped with new audiences. Men not only want to be handsome, but also want clothes to fit, and their tastes can stand the test of time, instead of following the trend.

The door to the resurgence of the custom industry is slowly opening.